195 : Brown Snake-Eagle

Brown Snake-Eagle - Circaetus cinerus

Hawks, Eagles and Kites form one of the raptor super groups (the other being the smaller pointed winged falcons). Typically they are all lumped together as raptors. The Daddys of the bird world who make their living catching and tearing flesh. 297 species of varied killing machine. They are all look fierce (or do we project that) and have sharp hooked bills and hooked talons - all the better to eat you with. These Snake-Eagles are a widespread fairly common bird - but having siad that we only saw one bird and on the way into the Olakira safari camp shortly having landed off of the plane.

We were met at the airstrip by our guide for the next 4 days and 3 nights Barakka. I could have wept for longer at that place but it was migration season in  the Northern Serengetti - the Mara river crossings by the wildebeest  were due to begin and it was hard work getting bookings confimed for exactly what we wanted even 9 months in advance. The salivation levels for this holiday were well beyond anything ever known in the Crossley household. From the moment we were on the light plane flying North from the Ngorogoro to the moment we stepped back in the plane everything was heightened. Time seems to slow down on safari because you are up so early and you eventually turn into bed with the noise of the night drifting into the camp at perhaps 10 pm. The abundance of natural spectacles in this place was beyond even my wildest dreams.

I seriuously thought that I might see a zebra or a lion or a hippo and think - Ah well - seen those all my life in a zoo. That somehow there might be some form of disapointment. I am now off zoos or any form of canned animal for life. And seeing birds woven and through the complete large eco system that they are supposed to belong in just made it all the better. In the UK we used to have bears, wolves, elk, beavers, boars (returned) - all long hunted out. Imagine that forest - as it had stood for 10,000 years since the last ice age stretching the full length of the country. Dense, impenatrable, scattered with huge wetlands teaming with birds - the crack of a twig making the back of the hair on your neck go up. I yearn to see that primeval Britain - long lost. Thats why safari or the rain forest or a mountain top are so important. Your fibre recognises that it is out of the world we know and into the world we forgot. One day a walking or riding safari perhaps - I like my hot water delivered by walky talky and my tent porch and beer though !

When you step off a safari truck to have a pee behind a bush the guys watch you and warn you not to wander off too far. Barakka had to fight a lion off of an Italian guest (who had ignored instructions when a wheel was being changed) with a shovel ! Or am I muddling Barrakka with another guide at Lake Manara - in any event you get the picture. Some places were too dangerous to stop and pee because they were perfect ambush points ! And sometimes when you step down you are handed a beer and as the engine stills you realise you are in the bush - peaceful, vast, deadly with something new at every turn. The Mara river has to be the most beautiful river I have seen. We followed it that first lunchtime on the way in. We had our evening sun downer next to it most afternoons after each game drive. Magical.

Much as I loved the river taking a walk beside it was not an option.

I think this was the first big crocodile we had seen. Do you know that they can virtually stop their bodies and live on 1 calorie a day for a whole year waiting for the crossings of the wildebeest which is of course bonanza time ! Stuff like this at every turn. Its time to book a family holiday - it might be disney land this year though before the kids get too old. Everglades !

I think I am going to bore any audience I have left ranting about safaris - I think sitting at a desk for your whole life you do need an antidote of wide open skies - beaches will do it, for some its sailing, climbing, canoeing - just get out there with some binoculars and watch a squirrel, get up at 6 am and listen to the birds. Roll in it. I am ready for some more. I have  a long weekend this weekend and I think some crawling around in the desert with my camera might be in order - perhaps an early start to try and see some antelope. That would be fun - they are out there !

Brown Snake-Eagle, Circaetus cinerus
Tanzania, Serengetti, Olakira Camp, Mara River
July 2012