Wednesday, October 9, 2013

285 : Yellow-collared Lovebird


Yellow-collared Lovebird - Agapornis personatus

I had a recent go at describing the larger "Psittaciformes" family relatively recently here when chalking up my first parrot. All a question of size so we are down at the smaller end with another lovebird. Last year in the North of Tanzania we bumped into the lovely Fischer's Lovebird nesting under our chalet roof at a budget lodge near to the Ngorogoro Crater.


These Yellow-collared Lovebirds were not nearly so obliging. They were extremely shy and had a very real habit of flying to the side of the vehicle from where the sun was shining as soon as you got within even ten metres. They are no more than 6 inches long so these are a small target.


They look out of place don't they. We are so conditioned to expect this sort of bird to live in a cage its whole life. I can tell you that every atom of their being is resistant to that ! They do not hang around when they see people !


One thing I love about parrot forms is the dexterity with their feet and tongue in particular. They can crack open a seed or nut and very gently ease out the soft tasty parts with their muscular tongues. We spent a few minutes watching one flock working itself through some long grass and bushes where they were feeding.


Most of the time the time this was my view - if I was lucky ! At the top of a Baobab tree and on this occasion not silohetted by the sun.

I will leave you with two views that sum up Ruaha for me this morning. One of a Baobab - incredible "trees" from the dawn of time that can live for thousands of years. Lorenzo, our Italian guide would comment how these trees were here when Christ walked the earth. Very Italian and passionate. You can buy the seeds flavoured in different ways in plastic tubs in African towns - they taste weird - slightly sour - the seeds melt in your mouth and have a cotton wool/raw potato texture that it is hard to describe !


A second tree an Umbrella Thorn or Acacia with its "stylists" - A giraffe and foal. I love this picture because its one of the first I took understanding that you can put the whole scene in focus with a steady rest and a large F number. Camera magic for me - I really didn't have a clue until relatively recently. As ever you can click on these pictures to get a better view - they are all taken with the new canon body and the last two with a few million pixels.


29 degrees in Dubai this morning at 7 am so really no excuse not to pack the camera bag, a packet of shortbread (top birding fare) and a can of bitter lemon - heaven knows if I got the bag packed on Friday  I could be out of the door at 7 am on Saturday. I am seeing reports of the world's birds on the move - Red Necked Phalaropes in Al Ain, White Storks in Fujeriah, Caspian Plovers up at the Pivot Fields. It would be good to go through 300 with a local picture. That's half a plan.

Yellow-collared Lovebird, Agapornis personatus
Tanzania, Ruaha National Park
July 2013

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

284 : Brown-crowned Tchagra


Brown-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra australis

These are a skulking family of bush-shrikes, feeding on the ground and rarely ascending above head-height. There are 4 similar looking species in Africa told apart by head patterns. I am going with Brown-crowned as the front parts look buff rather than grey to me and the crown is brown with a distinct black edging stripe rather than black all over. This was held out to me as a "Tchagra" - would it were so simple. Smart little birds about the size of a small dove we would run into these most days - but on one occasion only I managed a shot. Believe it or not I let a lot of birds go through in the interests of family harmony and to try and keep the boys engaged. They did well - up to 9 hours a day for 6 days in a safari truck across perhaps 12 drives. Hanging around for half an hour to get "the shot" of a bird thats hopping about and it brown isn't going to cut it some days. They have suggested that we have now "done Tanzania" after 2 years - we are off to Rome on Sunday for 5 days for half term. Not a monkey or deer there. Unless I see absolute commitment to art and history its back to the bush ! Only joking !

Hanging around trying to get a shot of a Greater Kudu in mid leap is a good game. I don't know what the delay between pressing the button and taking a picture is - Out of I think 4 Kudu who were going to perform leaps across the road (the crack in the pavement game for ungulates ?) I only managed to get one in mid jump with its head in view - and another who just considered ambling across was OK. I missed pretty much in  its entirety the male on this occasion. If I haven't impressed on you size and grace of these giant antelope yet all I can suggest is a quick hop down to Mid/Southern Africa. These have overtaken Hartebeest and Topi in my mental menagerie. The power in those legs.


So I managed this one at a walk.


Not so bad !

Take off !

They can leap over a safari truck if push comes to shove.


A younger male I think.

I am still quite shy of taking 100's of pictures and just letting the digital camera roll. Something in me still tries to husband film that doesn't exist anymore. Or perhaps its the idea of filling the camera card. I think if I had my time again in this moment I'd just let the thing whir and see what I got. I am bit too stingy with my resources. I only took I think 6,000 pictures in 6 days. I have whittled them down quite  lot - you should see some of the dross ! You have to be ruthless. I still wish I had taken more of people and scenery. Context.



The joy of watching elephants feeding up close.


The vast open spaces - here the Ruaha river running through a parched landscape. Highlands in the background. I am now an official safari "bore". I must get out this Saturday if only for an hour as I m not actually birding at the moment. I am vicariously re-birding Southern Tanzania from my own Mac.

I bought a quite old book - birding spots of the UAE - it might be quite a good game to go and see what survives, what has been built on and so on. I could pdf up the little drawing and directions and then we could see whats left - Quest for a Crab Plover e.g. Spending every morning mentally in Tanzania is making me dissatisfied with my lot here which is not a good thing and frankly a little rude ! I have Saturday free I believe so an early start with the camera - perhaps a trip up to Umm Al Quwain in search of overwintering Crab Plovers would be a good start. Thats a bird I haven't seen and that's really indictment on my commitment to "local birding". Its all time isn't it. Rugby season has kicked in so Saturday is really the only day as we get up early here in the week and school drop offs are early and then its dark by 6.30 these days. No long Summer evenings by the Thames - I used to bird along the Thames in the East End after a hard days lawyering in my late 20's. I have done lunch time dashes from work but its not really the ticket - you don't want to go back to work. Time to reengage with what's on my doorstep. Really over the mid-term I have a trip to Rome, a trip to London with work and then Xmas in the UK - so its got to be UAE birding to keep the clock ticking over !

Check this out !  A new owl in Northern Oman (link sent courtesy of a friend and old Dubai resident). Now we're talking. Only 7 ! Thats a like a Jacque Cousteau mission on land.

Brown-crowned Tchagra, Tchagra australis
Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
July 2013

Monday, October 7, 2013

283 : White-crowned Lapwing


White-crowned Lapwing - Vanellus albiceps

I do have a need for a database that I carry in the field that can tell me very quickly whether I have seen a bird and whether I have photographed it before. I had an "incident" last month when I double posted an Emerald Spotted Wood-dove - With this bird I am almost passed it by because I thought it was a Yellow-wattled Lapwing - penny a dozen I thought - wrong continent Neil ! Its understandable - these birds have the longest yellow wattles I have ever seen however that does not make them an eponymous shoe-in. The name was taken by an Indian Lapwing leaving the discoverer of this wader scratching around to find another distinguishing feature. Well forgive me if the white crown didn't exactly leap at me from the river bank.



I have to say I have never seen a bird sitting in the position. It seems to be resting on the backs of its lower legs and actually propped up on it tail. This must be how a bird sits on eggs but with longer legs like these they cannot all tuck in underneath if that makes sense. Anyway I was looking at this picture and thinking weird stance - while I was making sure that it wasn't a Yellow-wattled Lapwing (linked here from a trip to Sri Lanka two years ago).


I thought I would throw in one of our favourite animals as a family today - a Bat-eared fox. On arrival at Kwihala the guides were quizzing the boys about what sort of animals they wanted to see - leopards, lions cheetahs they were asked ? No out comes various snakes, pangolins, aardwolfs (because they are "aard" naturally), honey badgers (I could write a dozen posts on those if I haven't already), Aardvarks, but also these beautiful little foxes - Bat-eared foxes. Now we had never seen one and a guide once in Ngorogoro tried to convince me that a Golden-back Jackel was a Bat-eared Fox (we were too polite to insist otherwise) but a lifetime of animal books and the BBC prepares you for each encounter doesn't it.

We pulled off the road after Tony had spotted this pair squatting under bush in the shade. Faces from a cartoon - eyes slightly too close together and the obvious apendages ! Our love affair with the underlooked and driven past in Africa will be hard to shift. Lions - you run over them everyday (well not exactly but in a good park in the right season the liklehood is that your guide knows where to find them). A bat-eared fox on the other hand - I don't know but we seemed to be the only people in camp getting excited about these "critters". Ah ?!? You can see people thinking "weird" people when you swapping a picture of a Bat-eared Fox for one of a Leopard or a male Lion.

We had one other lovely little encounter - same pair on a different day and a roll in the dust - or I think ash from a burnt part of the bush. The whole encounter lasted a few seconds I just held down the button like a paparazzi at one point. They are so skittish and full of energy when active.












Lovely - the Bat-eared victory roll.

And back to camp - a picture here of the tent I shared with my eldest son - the dry season coming into full swing and the Autumnal shades on the different types of willow.


In the height of the busy season at work (which is now) I often think I should have spent more time just sat by my tent flat watching the world go by - during the longish siesta I would churn through photos - saving down into albums for each game drive. There is a whole year to edit photos but only 3 hours a day to sit and watch the bush from the veranda of your home away from home. By the time you get back from the evening drive its usually dark and time for a shower and dinner - the only free time really is the siesta. Small birds in the bush, the odd impala, sometimes a giraffe walking through camp. Wheres the airport !


Life has cooled down a touch in Dubai so early mornings I should be able to get out and see whether I can pick up some more local pictures. 300 is coming up soon so something special for that would be good.

Yellow-wattled no ! White Crowned Lapwing, Vanellus albiceps
Tanzania, Ruaha National Park
July 2013

Sunday, October 6, 2013

282 : Pygmy Falcon



Pygmy Falcon - Polihierax semitorquatus

A stunning little miniature raptor standing no more than 8 inches tall. This is the male bird taken at some distance hunting from a perch at the top of a tree. These tiny falcons will take small insects, small mammals and small reptiles like geckos.

These birds will take over weaver nests after they have completed all of the hard work, including lining the chamber. In the case of Sociable Weavers the falcon will take up residence at the edge of colony and then pick off the birds themselves as they raise a brood - so housing and dinner laid on for free. 


We watched this bird swoop down to take probably a beetle or other insect. A pocket sized packet of falcon and one I'd like to catch up with again.

On the same game drive we came across this large and very successful pride. Whats not to like about lion cubs !


They really are this regal in the wild.


This one the youngest - the big successful male in the background probably the father.


Absolutely helpless without the pride despite those big paws. I think there were at least 3 cubs, 5 lionesses and a big male. The most successful group in Ruaha taking up a large territory near to the river. Eden.

Pygmy Falcon, Poliheirax semitorquatus
Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
July 2013

Friday, October 4, 2013

281 : Goliath Heron


Goliath Heron - Ardea Goliath 

Back down by the mighty Ruaha River for the greatest of all the herons. Over a metre and half tall they are taller by half a metre than a Great White Egret and they are four times as heavy. Their wingspan is a full metre bigger than a grey heron - 7 feet ! In flight I am told they appear monstrous - barely managing to get airbourne and they hang their legs straight down rather than trailing them behind like other herons.  I have been itching to see one of these since I first set foot in Africa. They are usually found by swamps and lakes.


In my research to write this short piece I came across some footage that is not for the squeemish - a Goliath Heron eating a baby crocodile a good foot or more long - I am not sure the thing is even killed before it is swallowed whole ! Anyway here's  the link if you want to put yourself of lunch.

I leave you a picture of some lions enjoying the view out across the river. Taking a very keen interest in the buffalo making their way along the riverbank. It was a lovely spot.


Goliath Heron, Ardea Goliath
Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
July 2013

280 : African Scops-Owl


African Scops-Owl, Otus senegalensis

There are birding moments to last a lifetime. This tiny owl was snoozing on a rock just next to the track. My wife had great delight in taking a picture of Lorenzo, our guide and myself almost cuddling the thing. I was within perhaps 4 feet taking this shot.


You can't see the owl which is perched on the rock behind the tree. I wouldn't have cared if a lion walked past I was so in the zone with the camera and this beautiful creature. I could of reached out at one point and touched her - Lorenzo was just giggling and we edged closer and closer.


This owl is no more than 17 cm tall - so 7 inches - half a school ruler and a bit. These birds are supposed to roost in a tree or bush - this little guy was obviously enjoying the warmth from the rock and the sun - sunbathing ! When they are awake they hunt insects - moths, grasshoppers, beetles but also at times small rodents, geckos, scorpions and even small birds - much of the prey being taken on the wing. Absolutely delightful encounter.

Coming back into camp I had just nipped to spend a penny when Lorenzo came crashing across to the mess tent with news of a leopard perhaps a kilometre from camp. Some very italian driving down the hill followed and the adrenalin was high.

We caught up with Joy - thats Furaha in Swahili and she is a joy. The guides know her and she holds a territory near to Kwihala - recently she has been seen mating by one of the guides. I must write to camp to find out if there is any news yet. I don't think I need to say any more but just post the pictures. Much smaller than I imagined - a ghost - a graceful killer.







I am not sure how I will ever get a better portrait of a leopard - shot of a lifetime.

Happy Days !

African Scops Owl
Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
July 2013

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

279 : Speckled Pigeon


Speckled Pigeon, Columba Guinea

Some very striking pigeons down by the Great Ruaha River taken about mid week on this Summer's Safari - I love the way I write that - it suggest that every Summer will be Safari time but I think in fairness the result of the holiday world cup must stand and its Canada and Madagascar for the next 18 months - Lemurs here we come and hopefully some bears and a bunch of birds so I won't be short changed.

These pigeons are pretty widespread - There are two females and a male with his fine display of ornate chest feathers here. I will ignore pigeons and doves at my peril as the world has a good couple of hundred species some of which are endangered. Tap in Pink Pigeon in the search box and read about a very long trek to find the fabled survivor of Mauritius. I think my boys need some more long walks in their life as do I !!

I pick up (from a couple of months back at this pace !) with us speeding off to a potential cheetah sighting. There were 3 vehicles at our camp and as many guiding teams - we were lucky enough to secure a vehicle for our family which was lovely. No debates as to whether we made a dash across the park to something that the other two "teams" had seen. We could weigh it up based on interest, how engaged or otherwise the boys were (hunger must be listened to when you're 9 and 11 !). On this occasion we went for it - we often didn't. Stopping on the dirt track the guys surveyed  a patch of short grass dotted with trees. It could have been parkland at a stately home - its that serene.

We then clattered off the road - you are allowed a couple of minutes for a view of an animal and just one or two vehicles at a time (although we never saw more than a couple of vehicles ever and usually friends from Kwihala).


And there he was - lying under a tree with a full belly. As close as you sit to your telly to get the same view. Mrs C was a very happen woman, the boys were ecstatic - I felt very privilaged. Now we have seen a cheetah in the wild before - a long way off chasing a Thompsons gazelle and killing - really just a road runner trail of dust. It was in the Ngorogoro crater and we were accompanied by what 20 other vehicles. When I think about the crater I think - yes - some great wildlife but it feels like a cauldron with all the people. I have also seen cheetahs at Sri Banyas - which is a "canned" safari park basically set up by Sheikh Rashid some time ago and housing large collections of african animals. The Cheetahs get to kill but within a large fenced off area - several square kilometres. I had very ambivalent feelings about that place but I know they do a lot to breed some rarer animals. 

Here in Ruaha - 2 and half hours by light plane from Dar and another hour offroading we were on our own in beautiful striking african country just sat with bird song, and the odd animal noise, a slight breeze and this stunning creature. I must have taken 100 portraits. Please do click and blow up - I have never really looked at a cheetah's face properly. 


The flies are flat lion flies and they clean the blood from a kill from the cats muzzle. Again the white area under the eyes to bounce more light in - I guess for early morning and the evening as these are daylight hunters. The camouflage really does break up the Cheetahs outline at a distance. I love the face stripes - I assume it breaks up the head which would be the only thing visible when they are crouched. It was the length of the cat though - she seemed 6 or 7 feet long to me - I didn't get out and measure but the most graceful limbed thing I have ever seen - and the length of the tail. The eye colour - stunning. What a beauty.  

There is something about a large animal not in a zoo - just in the same way at home we get excited by a fox or a deer out there you really pinch yourself. These wonderful creatures deserve our greatest efforts to preserve and protect. I am reduced to bland statements today. He won't get fed once a day by a keeper - He sets off to hunt and has a 30 % chance or so every time she makes an energy punishing run at 68 mph ! They can then overheat and have to just lie and cool down before another attempt. Absolute adaptation. 

I had a P G tips card collection when I was a child and knew from the age of 5 or 6 that this as the earth's fastest land animal.  It tool me a good 40 years to get to see one in the wild but I am glad I made the pilgrimage. Thats what safari is - a pilgrimage away from the telly, the zoo - a voyage back to a wilderness that hangs on by its very fingertips. I am glad that Mrs C and the boys got to really drink in a cheetah , quietly and peacefully, hushed whispered family conversation, smiles from the guides, careful picture taking, no rushed movements - absolute delight. Wildlife bliss. Not too much else I can say. 


I leave you with a view of my favourite truck under a big sky in the evening light. It is so out of body when I look back - so intense an experience if you love nature and all that stuff thats its probably just as well that its once a year at most. I have to do some reading up on Canada I think and work out my big 5 for there - has to involve a beaver and a moose ! I may need a puffa jacket or some odd kit like a jumper ! 

Speckled Pigeon; Columba Guinea
Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
July 2013